You can test your brakes at home by checking how the pedal feels, listening for unusual noises and making sure the car stops straight without pulling. You can also check whether the parking brake holds the car securely on a slope.
These simple checks can tell you that something is wrong. They cannot tell you exactly how much braking force each wheel is producing, which is one reason an MOT uses proper brake-testing equipment.
Before you test your brakes
Brake testing at home should be simple and controlled. You are looking for warning signs, not trying to recreate an MOT test on the road.
Start with the car parked somewhere safe and level. If the brakes already feel seriously wrong, there is brake fluid underneath the car, a brake warning light has appeared or the pedal goes to the floor, do not take the car out for a test drive.
Get the braking system checked instead.
If everything feels normal while stationary, any moving check should be done at very low speed in a safe place away from traffic, pedestrians and parked cars. There is no need for a dramatic emergency stop to find out whether the brakes work.
1. Test the brake pedal while stationary
The brake pedal can tell you quite a lot before the car has moved an inch.
With the engine switched off, press the pedal firmly. There should be useful resistance and enough pedal travel left that it does not simply disappear towards the floor.
The DVSA MOT inspection specifically checks brake pedal condition and travel. A pedal reaching the floor with insufficient reserve travel is a major MOT defect.
What does a spongy brake pedal mean?
A spongy brake pedal feels soft or springy rather than reassuringly firm. You may also notice that it travels further than it used to before the brakes begin to bite.
There are several possible causes, including a problem within the hydraulic braking system. It is not something to diagnose by repeatedly driving the car to see whether it gets worse.
If the pedal has suddenly become spongy or its behaviour has noticeably changed, have the brakes inspected.
What does excessive brake pedal travel mean?
Every car feels slightly different, so there is no useful universal measurement for how far a pedal should move.
What matters is a change from normal. If you suddenly need to push the pedal much further before the brakes respond, or it gets close to the floor, something needs investigating.
What if the brake pedal slowly sinks?
Hold steady pressure on the pedal while the car is stationary. If it continues sinking unusually towards the floor rather than holding its position, treat that as a warning sign.
A sinking pedal can indicate a hydraulic problem and needs prompt investigation. If the pedal reaches the floor, braking performance is poor or you need to pump the pedal to get useful braking, do not continue driving the car.
2. Check whether the car pulls when braking
If the stationary checks feel normal, you can make a gentle low-speed check somewhere safe.
Apply the brakes progressively while holding the steering wheel normally. The car should slow in a controlled, predictable way and should not suddenly veer towards one side.
A car that pulls under braking may have unequal braking effort between the wheels, although tyres, steering and suspension faults can also affect how a car behaves.
That distinction matters. If the car also wanders, knocks or feels unstable when you are not braking, read our guide to steering and suspension warning signs:
During an MOT, brake imbalance is measured rather than judged by feel alone. The DVSA test can identify inadequate braking effort at an individual wheel and excessive differences between wheels on the same axle.
3. Listen to your brakes
Brakes are not completely silent on every car, and the occasional brief noise does not automatically mean a major repair is waiting.
A new or persistent noise is different.
Squealing or squeaking
A squeal can have several causes, from the condition of the pads and discs to contamination or vibration. A brief squeak after the car has been standing wet can also disappear once the brakes have been used.
If the noise persists, gets worse or comes with a change in braking performance, get it checked rather than trying to diagnose the fault from the sound alone.
Grinding or scraping
A harsh grinding or metal-on-metal sound needs more attention.
Brake pads, discs and other components can wear or become damaged. The current MOT rules class a brake pad worn below 1.5 mm as a dangerous defect, while a significantly and obviously worn disc or drum is a major defect.
If you hear persistent grinding, particularly with reduced braking performance, vibration or a changed pedal feel, stop using the car until the brakes have been inspected.
Clicking or knocking
A repeated click, clunk or knock when the brakes are applied is not something to dismiss as normal.
It does not automatically identify a particular component, because several brake, steering or suspension faults can produce noises. Make a note of when it happens and get it investigated.
4. Test the handbrake on a hill
The parking brake, usually called the handbrake even when it is an electronic switch, should hold the car securely.
If you have access to a safe, modest slope away from traffic, stop the car normally and apply the parking brake fully. Keeping control of the car with the footbrake, carefully check that the parking brake takes the vehicle’s weight rather than allowing it to roll.
Do not use a steep hill for this experiment. You are checking whether the brake holds, not auditioning for an action film.
If the car will not remain securely stationary, the parking brake needs attention.
Electronic parking brakes work differently between vehicles, so follow the instructions in your handbook rather than trying to force a particular test procedure.
5. Check your brake lights too
Good brakes are only half the conversation. Drivers behind you need to know you are using them.
Ask somebody to stand safely behind the stationary car while you operate the brake pedal, or use the reflection in a garage door or window if you are on your own. Check all the brake lights fitted to the vehicle.
A failed brake light is not proof of a problem with the braking mechanism itself, but it still needs sorting.
For more checks you can make before an MOT, use our full MOT checklist:
When should you stop driving immediately?
There is a difference between a brake noise that needs booking in and a braking problem that means the car should not be driven.
Do not continue driving if:
- the brake pedal goes to or very close to the floor
- braking performance has suddenly become seriously reduced
- you need to pump the pedal to get useful braking
- the car pulls severely or becomes difficult to control under braking
- there is an obvious brake fluid leak
- you have persistent grinding together with poor braking
- a serious brake fault or warning appears and the brakes are not behaving normally
DVSA MOT rules classify several braking faults as dangerous where braking performance is badly affected, including no braking effort at a wheel, severe imbalance on a steered axle and service-brake efficiency below half the required minimum.
If you are unsure whether the car is safe to drive, err on the safe side and arrange for it to be inspected without driving it to the garage.
What does the MOT brake test check that you cannot?
Your driveway checks are useful because you know how your car normally feels. What they cannot give you is a measured result for each wheel.
During an MOT, the primary brake-testing equipment is normally used to assess brake performance. For many cars this is a roller brake tester. The wheels sit in powered rollers while the tester progressively applies the brakes and records the braking effort produced.
The test can identify things that are difficult or impossible to measure accurately from the driver’s seat, including:
- the maximum braking effort at individual wheels
- excessive difference in braking effort between wheels on the same axle
- brake effort that fluctuates excessively as a wheel rotates
- a brake that is binding when it should be released
- a brake that grabs severely
- overall braking efficiency relative to the vehicle’s test weight
- parking brake performance
For most cars first used from 1 September 2010, the DVSA’s minimum service-brake efficiency requirement is 58%. For M1 passenger vehicles first used before that date it is 50%. The MOT testing system normally calculates efficiency and brake imbalance from the recorded readings.
Not every vehicle can safely be tested on rollers. Where the vehicle’s drive configuration, transmission or braking system makes the normal equipment unsuitable, the MOT manual allows an appropriate alternative such as a decelerometer test.
That is why a car can seem to stop reasonably well from behind the wheel yet still have a brake problem picked up at MOT. Your right foot can tell you plenty. It cannot produce four calibrated brake-effort readings.
Home brake check versus an MOT brake test
Think of the home check as an early warning system.
You can spot a pedal that feels different, a new noise, a car that pulls or a handbrake that no longer holds properly. Those are useful clues and good reasons to have the car inspected before a small problem becomes a larger one.
An MOT goes further. It checks braking components for defects and uses approved testing methods to assess actual performance and efficiency.
And an MOT is still a minimum roadworthiness test on the day. If your brakes start behaving differently six months after the test, a previous pass is not a reason to ignore them.
Getting your brakes checked in Horndean
If something does not feel right, we can inspect the braking system at Windmill Garage in Horndean and tell you what needs doing now and what can wait.
We are a family-run garage at 249 London Road, Horndean, and have looked after local drivers for over thirty-five years. Prices are published at https://www.windmillgarage.co.uk/prices/, and you can contact us at https://www.windmillgarage.co.uk/contact-us/.
Frequently asked questions
How can I test my brakes at home?
Start with the car stationary and check that the pedal has proper resistance and does not sink towards the floor. If that feels normal, make a gentle low-speed check somewhere safe and make sure the car stops predictably without pulling to either side. Listen for new squealing, grinding, knocking or scraping noises too.
Is a spongy brake pedal dangerous?
It can indicate a problem with the braking system, so do not ignore a pedal that suddenly feels soft or travels further than normal. If braking performance is reduced, the pedal goes to the floor or it needs pumping to work properly, do not continue driving.
Why does my car pull to one side when I brake?
Unequal braking effort can cause a car to pull under braking, but tyre, steering and suspension problems can also affect its behaviour. A garage can inspect the components and measure brake performance rather than relying on feel alone.
How do I know if my handbrake is working properly?
On a safe, modest slope, the parking brake should hold the stationary vehicle securely without it rolling. Keep control with the footbrake while checking it. For electronic parking brakes, follow the vehicle manufacturer’s instructions.
Can I test my brakes properly without an MOT brake tester?
You can spot useful warning signs at home, but you cannot accurately measure individual wheel braking effort, brake imbalance or overall brake efficiency by feel. An MOT uses approved brake-testing equipment or another permitted testing method where necessary.
Will worn brakes fail an MOT?
They can. The MOT covers brake condition, operation, performance and efficiency. For example, a brake pad worn to its wear indicator is a major defect, while a pad below 1.5 mm is classed as dangerous under the current DVSA manual.
Book your MOT or service in under a minute
If the pedal, noise or way the car stops has changed, get the brakes checked rather than waiting for the next MOT.
Book online any time at https://www.windmillgarage.co.uk/book-in-your-car/ or call us on 02392 571003 (Mon–Fri, 8.30am–5pm).